Blackheads vs Whiteheads vs Pimples: Differences & Treatments


Blackheads VS whiteheads VS pimples: they’re different things, but can you guess what they all have in common?

They’re all types of acne. They’re all terribly annoying. And they all make an appearance at the worst of times (usually together – they’re friends like that).

They all have a jolly good time on your face (or back, or chest, wherever), but you just want them to disappear ASAP. How do you do that? Acne is acne, so some acne treatments work for all of them. Others are better only for a specific type.

Confused? Fret not, I’m here to make skincare simple. Here’s the difference between blackheads VS whiteheads VS pimples and how to treat them:

What Causes Acne?

Blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples are all forms of acne. They all begin in the exact same way: with clogged pores.

Here’s how it works. Your sebaceous glands pump out more sebum (the skin’s natural moisturizer) than it can naturally flow out of the pores.

The excess sebum remains trapped inside the pores, where it gets entangled with dead skin cells. Together, they form a sticky mixture that clogs pores.

This is the beginning of acne. But, whether it’s a blackhead, a whitehead or a pimple depends on what else is going on inside your pores.

Related: Why Sebum Is Not A Dirty Word


Want a cheap skincare routine for acne that works? Subscribe to my newsletter below and receive The Ordinary Acne Skincare Routine Cheatsheet:


What Are Blackheads?

Let’s start with blackheads. Blackheads are a type of acne that’s NOT inflamed.

They happen when excess sebum, dead cells and other gunk get trapped into the pores near their openings. Here that icky mixture gets lots of fresh air, which has a weird effect on it. Air oxidizes it and turns it a black. So, nope, the colour has nothing to do with dirt. That’s just a myth.

How To Treat Blackheads

Here’s how to get rid of blackheads:

EXFOLIATE WITH SALICYLIC ACID

Also known as BHA, Salicylic Acid is an oil-soluble exfoliant that gets deep inside your pores, removing all that crap from within. Unlike other exfoliants or pore strips that only remove the top of the blackhead, Salicylic Acid removes its tail as well, getting rid of it for good.

Keep in mind, the older the blackhead is, the harder it’ll be for Salicylic Acid to do the job. If you don’t see results straight away, don’t be discouraged! Just keep at it.

For best results, use Salicylic Acid every other night, right after cleansing. Once the blackheads are gone, don’t stop. Keep using Salicylic Acid regularly to keep them from forming again.

Best Picks:

  • Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): Don’t let the name fool you. This exfoliant has both salicylic acid to unclog pores and glycolic acid to fade away the dark spots pimples sometimes leave behind. Available at Cult BeautySephora and SpaceNK.
  • Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($29.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult BeautyDermstoreNet-A-PorterPaula’s ChoiceSephora, and SpaceNK.
  • The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid (£9.99): A simple, no-frills salicylic acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Cult Beauty and Sephora.

BHA PEEL

If your blackheads are old and your Salicylic Acid exfoliant isn’t up for the job, ask your dermatologsit for a BHA peel. It’s still Salicylic Acid, but in a higher concentration that does then job faster.

Your derm may also want to perform a manual extraction. I’m not a big fan as it can be stressful on your skin, but done by the right expert, will do the trick.

AVOID SCRUBS AND PORE STRIPS

They don’t work. Wait, what?!

I know it’s satisfying to see all that gunk get off your skin. But that’s just dirt on the superficial layer of your skin. Blackheads have a tail comfortably lodged inside your pores. Scrubs and pore strips simply can’t penetrate deep enough to remove it.

You think you’ve got rid of blackheads. But with the tail still in your pores, that bloody head just grows back within days and you’re back at square one. So frustrating!

Related: Why I Don’t Use Pore Strips (And You Shouldn’t Either)

the ordinary aha 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution review 01

What Are Whiteheads?

A whitehead is a pimple that’s NOT inflamed.

The story begins in the same way. Excess sebum and dead cells clog the pores. But, this time, the opening of the pore is so small, air can’t oxidize it. That’s what it remains white instead of turning black.

How To Treat Whiteheads

The treatment for whiteheads is the same as blackheads. I’ll give you a brief overview, but you can refer to the section above for more details:

EXFOLIATE WITH SALICYLIC ACID

Salicylic Acid is a great remedy for anything that’s stuck in your pores, including whiteheads. The idea is the same: it gets into your pores, removing the entire whitehead from within. It also keeps new ones from forming. For best results, use Salicylic Acid every other night, right after cleansing.

Best Picks:

  • Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): Don’t let the name fool you. This exfoliant has both salicylic acid to unclog pores and glycolic acid to fade away the dark spots pimples sometimes leave behind. Available at Cult BeautySephora and SpaceNK.
  • Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($29.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult BeautyDermstoreNet-A-PorterPaula’s ChoiceSephora, and SpaceNK.
  • The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid (£9.99): A simple, no-frills salicylic acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Cult Beauty and Sephora.

BHA PEEL

Your whiteheads should disappear with regular Salicylic Acid use. If that’s not the case, and they stubbornly insist on hanging around your skin, go to your dermatologsit for a BHA peel. It’s a stronger strength of Salicylic Acid that works faster. But it’s more irritating, hence why you need a professional to administer it.


Related: Why Salicylic Acid Is Key To Unclogged Pores And Blemish-Free Skin

epionce purifying spot gel

What Are Pimples?

Pimples are red bumps with a raised white, pus-filled tip.

They happen when a clogged pore is under so much pressure that it ruptures. That’s not even the worst of it. It becomes infected with bacteria (they love to eat pus. Yicky, I know!). Then, it gets inflamed. That’s when the pus is pushed to the surface of the skin and you see the pimple.

How To Treat Pimples

Here’s how to get rid of pimples:

EXFOLIATE WITH SALICYLIC ACID

I know I start to sound like a broken record. Salicylic Acid is the only exfoliant that clears up pores. This makes it the first line of defence against ALL forms of acne – both for prevention and cure. For best results, use Salicylic Acid every other night, right after cleansing.

Best Picks:

  • Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): Don’t let the name fool you. This exfoliant has both salicylic acid to unclog pores and glycolic acid to fade away the dark spots pimples sometimes leave behind. Available at Cult BeautySephora and SpaceNK.
  • Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($29.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult BeautyDermstoreNet-A-PorterPaula’s ChoiceSephora, and SpaceNK.
  • The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid (£9.99): A simple, no-frills salicylic acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Cult Beauty and Sephora.

SPOT TREAT WITH BENZOYL PEROXIDE

“Benzoyl peroxide is a topical medication that kills acne-causing bacteria. It works very quickly, and most people see results in as early as five days,” says board-certified dermatologist Arielle N.B. Kauvar, MD. “It works to reduce pimples and pustules because of its bactericidal properties.” 

The catch? Benzoyl Peroxide can be harsh and cause redness, irritation and dryness. For best results, use it only as a spot treatment, two or three times a day.

Best Picks:

  • Paula’s Choice Clear Regular Strength Daily Skin Clearing Treatment with 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide ($22.00): A gentle treatment for mild acne, it’s loaded with soothing agents to calm down the irritation and counteract the side effects of Benzoyl Peroxide. Available at Dermstore and Paula’s Choice.
  • La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo Dual Acne Treatment with Benzoyl Peroxide ($22.99): The brand says you can use it all over the face, but 5.5% Benzoyl Peroxide is too harsh for that. Instead, use it on active pimples and moderate acne to help it heal faster. It’s a simple formula that just works. Available at BootsDermstore, and Ulta.
  • Tula Go Away Acne Spot Treatment with Benzoyl Peroxide ($22.00): This 5% Benzoyl Peroxide is enriched with niacinamide and other soothing ingredients to moisturise skin and soothe inflammation while fighting acne. Available at DermstoreNordstrom, and Ulta.

SPOT TREAT WITH SULFUR

Sulfur is my fave acne treatment. It gets rid of pimples faster than anything else I’ve personally tried (keep in mind, I’ve only ever had the odd pimple, not severe cystic acne).

Sulfur is a natural mineral that treats acne in several ways:

  • It has antibacterial properties, so it kills the bacteria that cause acne
  • It helps prevents acne-causing bacteria from spreading
  • It helps exfoliate dead skin cells, accelerating cellular turnover and preventing breakouts
  • It helps dry out blemishes
  • It helps reduce oiliness, keeping breakouts at bay

But… there’s a catch. Sulfur has a high pH, which can disrupt the skin’s protective barrier. Translation: it can cause dryness and irritation. Don’t trust brands that tell you you can use it as a mask. This is a spot treatment only!

Best Picks:

  • Epionce Purifying Spot Gel Blemish Clearing Tx ($42.00): The most effective spot treatment I’ve found, it massively reduced my pimple in one day and by day 3, it was gone. Available at Dermstore.
  • Mario Badescu Drying Mask ($18.00): A clay mask enriched with sulfur to soak up excess oil and dry out pimples. It has cucumber extract to soothe irritations too. Available at Beauty BayCult Beauty, and Ulta

The Bottom Line

Now you know the difference between blackheads VS whiteheads VS pimples. They’re all forms of acne that can be treated and prevented by exfoliating with Salicylic Acid. If you’ve got pimples, add a spot treatment to speed up the healing and get your clear skin back sooner.

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